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Identification of the last fortified structures and recognition
of the remaining historical vestiges
Although the Venetian walls of Chania are still standing
for much of their length, they suffer from a host of problems caused
by historical circumstance, physical or chemical damage, demolition,
silting up or burial under more modern constructions. The situation
is, however, reversible; and given enough time it will be possible
to recover about 95% of the monument, through a series of more or
less costly interventions, which indeed are to a certain extent
already under way.
The configuration of the ground, certain weak points in the design
of the fortifications and imperfections in their construction, as
well as the relative suddenness of the Turkish attack in the summer
of 1645, substantially subverted the value of Chania’s fortifications;
and the city fell after a brief siege. The southwest side sustained
serious damage by bombardment, especially in the area of the Lando
bastion and cavalier tower, the Piatta Forma and the curtain wall
between the Santa Lucia and Sabbionara bastions. The damage was
repaired hastily, and not in the best manner. Further considerable
damage was caused by lack of maintenance over the period of Turkish
rule, while some of the interventions that were made were less than
successful.
By the middle of the 19th century the walls had entirely lost their
reason for existence, and fell into neglect. During the period of
international occupation (1878-1898), barracks and other military
installations were built on the ramparts in a number of places.
Towards the end of the century, during the brief years of Crete’s
autonomy, the walls were considered an abominable symbol of the
enslavement of the Christian population, which ought to be torn
down to allow the city to grow and its older and newer areas to
coalesce. The new town plan that was drawn up provided for the unification
of the road systems of the outer and inner parts of the city. To
achieve this, great breaches were made in the wall between the Gritti
bastion and the Firka fort, in the western curtain wall, between
the Lando and Piatta Forma bastions, the Porta Retimiotta was condemned,
two more breaches were opened near the Santa Lucia bastion and one
next to the Porta Sabbionara. A 1905 law handed the walls over to
the Municipality of Chania for demolition, the ditch was allotted
to private individuals and largely turned into vegetable plots,
while large buildings slowly began to arise on the counterscarp
side. Construction of the Municipal Market was begun in 1908, right
over the Piatta Forma bastion; and the adjacent cavalier towers
of Santa Maria and San Giovanni were pulled down and the material
thrown into the ditch.
During the 1930s the upper part of the Santa Lucia bastion was pulled
down, and the material used to fill in the ditch. Similar interventions
to fill the ditch and turn it into a road were carried out in the
section between the Piatta Forma and Santa Lucia bastion (Nikeforou
Foka Street), and in the southern section of the west curtain wall
(Meletiou Piga Street). In the 1960s the huge Xenia Hotel was built
above the Gritti bastion, and the “Asteri” cinema in
the ditch beside the Lando bastion; the “Regina” cinema
was built in a similar position beside the Santa Lucia bastion during
this same period, and the neighbouring large Hotel Kriti during
the period of the military dictatorship. Later still, unplanned
and unlicensed poor suburbs sprang up on the embankments of the
walls, while a number of hollows that had formed under the east
and south curtain walls were taken over as “cave dwellings”.
In the 1950s, large areas of the ditches that had been used to cultivate
vegetables and were listed as “exchangeable” were handed
over to Greek refugees from Turkey for rural resettlement.
With the listing of the old city and its fortifications an “historic,
listed monument”, a number of rescue and recovery actions
were carried out, chiefly by the Ministry of Culture; these included
extensive expropriations of land in the eastern, southern and western
ditches. Small scale (for the moment) restoration projects have
been carried out on the walls at various points; and most of the
Santa Lucia bastion, the upper part of the west side of the Piatta
Forma and part of the curtain wall between these bastions have been
cleared. These localised interventions will help in the search for
the earthed-over fortifications. The Ministry of Health and the
City of Chania have jointly built communal housing for the squatters
occupying the walls, and have pulled down some of their illegal
constructions.
Although the interventions that have been made in the past to the
Venetian walls of Chania are both extensive and serious, the virtually
complete recovery of the bulk of this important monument is nonetheless
feasible, through a series of bold (but costly) actions that will
wholly change the shape of the historic centre of the city (as the
monumental and unified character of the fortifications is recovered),
improve the quality of life and create a wide green belt with compatible
land uses in this area.
Realisation of these projects will require further archaeological
research to locate and fully identify all the extant sections, in
order to create a new and accurate survey of the present state of
the monument. At the same time, a wealth of unpublished written
and photographic material will have to be combed for additional
construction details to supplement those gleaned from the (chiefly)
Venetian archives known to date. Then there will have to be further
research into construction materials and methods and an analysis
of the causes of damage, following which a full restoration study
for the monument can be drafted. This study will have to be accompanied
by bold changes in the levels of some roads, and by new traffic
arrangements. |
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